Showing posts with label lucy mercer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lucy mercer. Show all posts

Thursday, November 1, 2012

My new favorite cake

Grapefruit Chiffon Cake. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books
Do you go through baking binges? I sure do. I can go months without turning out scones, cookies, cakes or pies, then inspiration strikes and I buy a few pounds of butter, sugar and flour and go to town. This particular bolt of inspiration struck me back in the winter ~ it's a prize-winning cake published by nannydeb on Food 52.

It's called Texas Ruby Red Grapefruit Cake with a Hint of Mint and it's spectacular. I've made it four times this year and each time it has gotten rave reviews. You may be alarmed by the word grapefruit. Another word: don't. The flavor is subtle and really, more citrus-y than particularly grapefruit-y. If you need to bring a cake to a family function this fall or winter, give this recipe a try. It's definitely a keeper.

I left off the mint in my version and the cake got raves, but give it a try with the mint. The recipe is found here: Texas Ruby Red Grapefruit Cake with a Hint of Mint. Be sure to check out Food 52 while you're there ~ the recipes range from homey standards to fresh new takes on restaurant and international dishes. I even have a page and a spotlight (curtsy).

Text and images copyright 2012, Lucy Mercer.

Sunday, September 30, 2012

Sufferin' Succotash



Summer vegetable soup with the flavors of succotash. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books

 Or maybe I should say “Thufferin’ thuccotash!” in honor of Thylvethter, one of my favorite Thaturday morning cartoon characters? (Thorry.)

In these days of 24/7 cartoon networks and kids’ programming, the ritual of Saturday morning cartoons is lost. My kids can’t believe that I grew up with less than a dozen t.v. channels and that cartoons only came on Saturday mornings, ending with “Kukla, Fran and Ollie” at noon, then it was time for lunch and being rushed out of the house by my mom. “Go ride your bikes!” “Go see your friends!” we were admonished. (and we obeyed.)

This summer, we took the girls to Saturday morning cartoons at the Fox Theatre in Atlanta, a Looney Tunes festival, and my girls were introduced to Bugs Bunny, Daffy Duck, Sylvester, Tweety Bird, Yosemite Sam, the Martian and all the gang. Sitting on the balcony, watching the Merrie Melodies reels, I wish I had worn my p.j.’s and brought my favorite blankie. 

And now in September, summer is persisting and so has the harvest. Before the markets are overtaken with cool-weather greens and winter squashes, I’m putting everything together in a soup. This summer vegetable soup is based on a recipe given to me by my friend Julie. Her mother makes it every summer with homegrown tomatoes, corn, okra and butter beans. I started off the same, but switched out the okra for green beans. The combination of tomatoes, corn and lima beans made me think of succotash. Cheers, Sylvester!

Summer vegetable soup with pimento cheese sandwiches. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books


Succotash Soup (Summer Vegetable Soup)

Peeling and seeding tomatoes is a pain in the patootie, but it really improves the final soup. After all, you’ll probably only make this soup once a year, when the last of the summer tomatoes are filling up your kitchen counter. It may seem odd to add the cobs to the soup pot, but my feeling is the cobs will give up the last of their corniness to the soup. Just skip the step if you think it’s weird.

2 tablespoons butter
1 onion, peeled and chopped into ¼ inch dice
8 ripe tomatoes
2 ears of corn
½ pound green beans, washed, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths
½ pound butter beans, shelled (I used frozen)
Water
Salt and pepper to taste

 
1.       In a soup pot over medium heat, melt butter and add onion. Add a pinch of salt and stir until onions are softened.
2.       Meanwhile, put a pot of water on to boil and have ready a bowl of ice water in order to peel and seed the tomatoes. Have a third bowl ready with a mesh strainer placed over it. Cut an X into the bottom of each tomato and place in the boiling water, being careful not to crowd the pot. After a minute or two, place the tomatoes in the ice water. Repeat until all tomatoes have been blanched. Using a sharp paring knife, peel the tomatoes, then slice in half ,and over the bowl with the mesh strainer, squeeze out the seeds. Use your knife and fingers to finesse the remaining seeds out of the tomato flesh. Chop the remaining tomato flesh into ½ inch dice and place in soup pot with onion. Add the strained tomato juice to the soup pot and discard the seeds.
3.       For the corn, when shucking the corn, be sure to remove all visible silks. Place the cob horizontally on the cutting board and working on each side, shave the kernels off the cob. Rotate cob to get all the kernels off the cob. Stand the cob upright and use the back of the knife to scrape the remaining corn juice off the cob. Place corn in soup pot. Use your hands to snap the cobs into 2 pieces and add to soup pot.
4.       Add green beans and butter beans to soup pot, followed by enough water to cover, usually about 1 cup or more. Cook for 30 minutes. Remove the corn cobs from the soup. Taste the soup for seasoning and adjust. Butter may be added to each serving for additional richness. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Text and images copyright 2012, Lucy Mercer.


 For more ways to use up the last of the summer tomatoes, see:



Incredible roasted vegetables (Briami)
Tomato Gravy & Biscuits



Saturday, August 25, 2012

Sagra delle Fragole at FIGO Pasta


FIGO Pasta in Vinings celebrates Strawberry Sagra

How incredible is it that the Italian language has its own word for food festival? The word is sagra, and Figo Pasta is celebrating its Sagra delle Fragole in honor of strawberries through the end of summer with a three-course menu highlighting the sweet and tart fruit.

House-made bread with olive oil, while waiting. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books
 The menu begins with Bruschetta alla Fragole, slices of toasted ciabatta with a shmear of goat cheese, topped with a salad of sliced cherry tomatoes and strawberries with balsamic vinegar and basil ($5). The generous portion could easily be shared, but I confess that I gobbled down all three pieces without apology.

Strawberry bruschetta. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books

Next up: Osso Bucco Ravioli ~ a filling of braised veal shank meat stuffed into Figo’s house-made ravioli. Served with a Parmesan cream sauce and drizzled with a snappy strawberry black pepper glaze ($12). My ravioli-crazy daughter loved this dish, especially the tart and savory combination of sauce and glaze.

Ravioli at Figo Pasta. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books

And for dolci, the sweet stuff, pasta dough infused with strawberries and filled with a rich mixture of Nutella, ricotta and mascarpone, then deep-fried to crispy goodness. Eager dessert lovers beware – fresh out of the fryer, you get a mouth full of Nutella lava and possibly a dribble on the chin or table. Small bites from the corners are the way to go here. And yes, the ravioli are delicious. By all means, share this dish ($5).

Strawberry fried ravioli with Nutella filling. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books


Figo has seven locations throughout Atlanta; I visited the Vinings location. Figo Pasta in Vinings is the best kind of neighborhood restaurant – patrons walk their dogs to the front door of the east Paces Ferry location, tie their animal to the porch rail, pop inside to order, and return to the porch to wait for an employee to bring the food outside.  It’s also toddler and infant friendly as evidenced by the many young families stopping by for pasta on a recent Sunday evening.

The sagra tradition doesn’t end when the strawberry season does (if strawberry season ever truly ends) – Grape Sagra is slated for September. 

Figo Pasta, seven locations throughout Atlanta. www.figopasta.com
The meal was complimentary; my opinions are my own.

Friday, June 29, 2012

Up on the roof at Ecco


Open kitchen at Ecco, Midtown Atlanta. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books


On a busy Saturday night in midtown Atlanta, you know it's going to a memorable meal when the chef comes to your table and asks if you'd like to see the rooftop garden. When you look up from your cocktail and say, "why, certainly!" he says, "well, let me go get the ladder and I'll be right back for you."

Ladder to the rooftop garden, Ecco. Lucy Mercer/ A Cook and Her Books


Ecco Sous Chef Justin Jordan didn't lead my husband and me along the primrose path, he led us up the ladder, to the roof, around the air-conditioning units and very close to the edge (at least it seemed that way for this slightly phobic ~ hubs would argue that point ~ writer) of the restaurant's roof. On this triple-digits-in-the-shade June afternoon, we savored a view of Midtown's skyscrapers above and the restaurant's valet parking below, with raised garden beds in between.

Chef Justin Jordan at Ecco's rooftop garden. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her books


 Ecco is the kind of restaurant where “source” is a verb, not a noun. As in “we source as much local produce as we can,” according to Chef Justin. With bounteous sunshine and a clever irrigation system, the rooftop garden is part of Ecco's response to the local and farm-to-table commitment. In addition to purchasing organic produce from local farmers, with a little planning, it’s simple enough to just grow vegetables and herbs yourself. After all, what could be more local than the roof of the restaurant?

Chef Justin shelling peas. Lucy Mercer, A Cook and Her Books


The a/c units that I walked around are essential to the garden. Condensation runoff is piped to the beds, so the plants are continually watered, necessary in Atlanta’s drought/deluge weather patterns.
Chef Justin showed us the lush heirloom tomato and chile pepper plants, pea plants, and the summer squash blossoms and fragrant basil, a preview of the meal to come. Before leaving the rooftop, Chef Justin snapped off a peapod and showed me the cowpeas that are nearing maturity. I’ve heard of cowpeas; usually they’re called black-eyed peas or field peas. These, however, look like Holsteins:

Cow peas. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books


Back downstairs, in the blessedly air-conditioned restaurant, Chef Justin fed us well, beginning with a fried squash blossom drizzled with chile oil. The blossom came adorned with a paper-thin fried basil leaf. (I stuffed pumpkin blossoms last summer and I now what a labor of love these delights can be!)

Fried squash blossom. Ecco. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books


We tried the grilled Piri Piri squid served with a fried egg and an olive emulsion. I like the crispy tentacles, where the spice concentrates.

Grilled Piri Piri squid with olive emulsion. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books

Next up, a dish I could eat all summer long ~ sea trout a la plancha with luscious romesco and a summery salad of green tomatoes, cukes and a snap of mint. A side of local beans, slender haricots verts, blanched and served with shaved torpedo onions, opal basil and dressed with sesame oil is my must-duplicate-at-home selection.

Sea trout a la plancha with romesco. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books


The beautiful green bean dish...

Local green beans with shaved onion, basil and sesame oil. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books


From our table in the middle of the restaurant, we could view the wood-fired pizza oven and Chef Justin presiding over the plates. The action is diverting and reassuring, background buzz for a busy Saturday night.

Chef Justin Jordan @ Ecco, Saturday night. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books

Ecco is located at 40 7th Street, Atlanta 30308. 404.347.9555.

~ Thanks to Ecco and Chef Justin for a lovely meal and the tour of the rooftop garden. (The meal was comped, but the opinions expressed here are my very own.)

Text and images copyright 2012, Lucy Mercer.

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Weeknight Roast Chicken with Vegetables

Roasted chicken breasts with vegetables. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books

It was a classic 70s Mom moment: I pored through my cookbooks asking myself, "what can I do with chicken tonight?" Of course, the 70s mom would have have worried about ground beef, but I had a 1-pound package of bone-in chicken breasts about a day past its expiration and due for a date with either the freezer or the oven.

In winter, I prefer bone-in poultry because I love to braise - making a hearty pot of chicken and dumplings that can simmer in the oven for most of the day, the chicken releasing its juices into a savory broth. In the summer, however, I avoid these kind of kitchen-warming projects. But my husband found some chicken breasts on sale at the market and I needed a quick and easy supper idea.


Roast chicken and vegetables. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books



I guess most folks would coat the breasts in barbecue sauce and grill them, but given the stormy weather, an indoor recipe would need to be found. I checked through two favorite cookbooks, a cherished ring-bound Pillsbury Cookbook, missing its covers, but still holding its own as a home cooking go-to resource; and my favorite cookbook, Big Orange, the America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook, revised edition. My search this time yielded a Roast Chicken with Vegetables in ATK that used bone-in chicken breasts and required just one pan.


Potatoes, carrots, celery & onions coated with olive oil, salt and pepper. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books


I cut up two carrots, six red potatoes and two onions, mixed them with a double glug of olive oil and a couple sprigs of fresh thyme from the garden, spread them in a pan and baked them for 15 minutes in a hot, 450 degree oven. The chicken breasts were placed over the vegetables, brushed with a few tablespoons of melted butter and seasoned with salt and pepper. Both chicken and vegetables returned to the oven for about 30 minutes (this was convection, allow longer for conventional). When I opened the oven door, the aromatic chicken was a sight to behold - skin the color of aged cherrywood and juicy, tender flesh. The potatoes cooked in melted butter, olive oil and melted chicken fat were a guilty pleasure.



Ready for the oven. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books


Roasted Chicken Breasts and Vegetables

6 to 8 medium red potatoes, peeled and quartered 


4 carrots, peeled and sliced into 2-inch lengths


2 medium onions, peeled and quartered

2 sprigs fresh thyme

Olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper


3 bone-in chicken breasts

2 tablespoons melted butter

1. Preheat oven to 450. Toss vegetables and thyme with olive oil, salt and pepper and spread
 on baking sheet covered in heavy duty foil. Roast for 15 minutes.
 Remove from oven and stir vegetables.


2. Place chicken breasts on top of vegetables. 
Brush with melted butter and season with salt and pepper.
Return to oven for 30 minutes. Near the end of cooking time, check for doneness by piercing
the chicken breasts with a knife or fork and looking for juices to run clear. You're looking
for 165 on a meat thermometer, too. Remove tray from the oven and serve chicken with
vegetables. 






















Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Indulgent hot chocolate from Valentine's candy




Hot chocolate, the body-and-soul-warming beverage of snowy days, is essentially a liquid candy bar, so what if it were really a liquefied candy bar? The best cup of hot chocolate is traditionally made with chocolate melted and combined with dairy, either cream or milk, and topped with marshmallow. This sounds like a candy bar - chocolate, either dark or milk; sugar; marshmallows. In fact, it sounds just like a 3 Musketeers bar, which makes a stupendous cup of cocoa - the sweet milk chocolate is rich and the melted, toasty nougat dissolves and adds body, that creamy mouth-feel that the food writers go on about. Two ingredients, one cooking vessel, one serving mug, so very easy.


Many years ago my friend Billy gave me this ultimate hot chocolate recipe, and it’s an ideal way to use up leftover holiday candies. Three weeks after Valentine's Day, I still have a stash of pink- and red-wrapped milk chocolate hearts and kisses, plus caramel Rolos and Reese's Peanut Butter Cups (known in the South as "Reese-y's" and around my house as "Nature's Most Perfect Food"). At the supermarket, I picked up original 3 Musketeers ("whipped-up fluffy chocolate on chocolate taste") and new-to-me 3 Musketeers Mint with Dark Chocolate ("whipped-up fluffy chocolate on mint taste"), both in the fun size. On a whim, I tossed a box of Junior Mints into the basket. Add a sunny but cold afternoon, and some eager taste testers, and we were ready for a hot chocolate throwdown.



The recipe is pretty much a ratio, approximately 4 ounces of chocolate candy to 8 ounces of milk, beginning with a small amount of chocolate and adding more to taste. I began with milk heated on the stove and mixed up individual servings by placing the chocolate in the bottom of a measuring cup, topping off with milk, then heating in 15 second increments in the microwave.



The results are in: my personal favorite is the 3 Musketeers Dark Chocolate Mint bars. The dark chocolate takes the edge off the sweet and the mint adds a crisp note. There is a pleasant toasty marshmallow taste and the nougat contributes to the texture and body of the beverage. My second place vote goes to the Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup. Rich, chocolaty and peanut buttery, two great tastes that taste great together, as the ditty goes. A slight grittiness from the p.b. is the only detraction there. Rolos are a sentimental favorite - try them with popcorn sometime. They make a sweet, thick cocoa, with a pleasant caramel kick. Aggressive stirring is required to incorporate the caramel into the milk.

The young testers gave thumbs up to the dark horse entry, hot Junior Mint. The deep chocolate color was the most appealing of all the cups and the extra sweetness appealed to the sugar-crazed kids. The preschool tester favored the simple 3 Musketeer version, with additional marshmallows.

Master Recipe for Candy Bar Hot Chocolate

Yield: One 8-ounce cup of hot chocolate

Ingredients:

8 ounces whole milk

3 fun-size 3 Musketeers bars (or 10 small Reese's pb cups or 16 Rolos or 4 oz. Junior Mints or 8 Hershey's Milk Chocolate Kisses or Hearts)

Directions:

Heat milk on stovetop or in microwave, just to scald. Place candy in bottom of mug and pour milk over. Whisk, whisk, whisk until candy is melted. Taste and add more chocolate, if necessary. You may want to place the mug in microwave for 15 seconds at a time to further dissolve the chocolate. Garnish with marshmallows or candy canes, or try this idea from the 3 Musketeers website - shavings from a frozen 3 Musketeers bar!
 
This story is a re-post - I thought it might be a good idea for all those extra Hershey's kisses around the house now that Valentine's is over.
 
What about you? Do you have leftover chocolate and do you have plans for it?

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Darling clementines

Clementines by Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books


Now that school is back in session, (holidays and snow storms have made this only the second full week of school since early December), I'm back to spending my days in the car. Two daily carpool runs on two different school schedules makes my minivan a second home. And just like at home, the girls will ask for snacks to tide them over on the short trip from school to home. My latest solution is to keep a crate of clementines on the back seat. They are easy to peel, and if you do it right, the peel comes off in a single, easily disposable piece. They are tasty and not one bit messy.

Even with evening temps in the 20s, the clementines are just nicely chilled, not frozen. We've gone through two crates in the past week, which leaves me with a problem: what to do with leftover clementine crates? Wouldn't you know, there's a Facebook page devoted to the puzzling question; there are some creative ideas on this page, too, from a baby doll bed to an herb garden. There are more mundane uses as well, like paper storage (I've employed one crate to hold coupons awaiting sorting.)

I also found a lovely-sounding recipe at Megan's Cookin' blog for clementines dipped in chocolate and dusted with sea salt. Sounds like gilding the lily, but sometimes that's a good thing.

What about you? Are you crazy for clementines? Do you eat them straight or cook with them? Any genius ideas for repurposing clemmie crates?

Sunday, January 30, 2011

I want candy (bacon)

Candied bacon by Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books
Breakfast during the week is usually a filling bowl of oatmeal, or maybe vanilla yogurt with my homemade granola, some mornings a whole wheat bagel with a shmear. On the weekends, though, I'll put together a bigger breakfast, and have it ready for my sleepyheads when they wander downstairs. Crispy, yeast-raised waffles, or buttermilk pancakes, sometimes with ham, sometimes with this decadent bacon, baked in the oven with brown sugar. This is the sinful salt, sugar and bacon fat matrix - you can't stop at just one piece, so save it for a sometimes treat for your family.

I gave up frying bacon on the stovetop a long time ago. I bake it in the oven now and I have a system that guarantees easy clean-up and crispy bacon.

Candied Bacon
1 pound thick-cut bacon (I use Oscar Mayer hearty thick cut, but other brands will work)

2 tablespoons brown sugar (light or dark will work, I favor dark)

Cayenne pepper, optional

1. Preheat the oven to 350. Take a half-sheet pan or rimmed baking sheet and cover it with foil, making sure to push the edges of the foil against the sides of the pan. Place a nonstick baking grid on top of the foil (if you don't have one, it's ok, but the baking grid will keep the bacon out of the grease).

2. Place the strips of bacon on the baking grid. Sprinkle the strips with brown sugar and a bit of cayenne, if using. Bake at 350 for 25 to 30 minutes, or until desired level of crispiness is reached. Remove from oven and drain on paper towels.



Text and images copyright 2011, Lucy Mercer.

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

A sign at the Times


Mark Bittman, New York Times columnist/MarkBittman.com


One of my favorite food writers, Mark Bittman, is moving from the food pages to the opinion desk at the New York Times. (Some of you may know that once upon a time, I wrote for a newspaper and still read many newspapers daily. With newspapers online these days, the New York Times has become my paper of record. They even covered the biggest story in my little town in the past century – the 500-year flood  – better than my “local” papers. ) Bittman’s Minimalist column started as a way to help home cooks improve their game, nourishing themselves and their families, and it grew to reflect changing times and attitudes toward food. Bittman sums up the 700 stories in 13 years here.

What I think is interesting about the move is what Bittman will be writing about next: food policy and ethics on the Times op-ed page. That’s right, next to the daily musings on the state of politics and policy, Bittman will write about what Americans eat and what that means. The conversation is changing from how to prepare what we eat to the provenance of what’s on the plate. The issues go beyond carbon footprints, teenage obesity and when to eat an heirloom tomato, encompassing the ethics of food, the rights of workers, the ominous -sounding term “food justice.” I’m an unabashed Bittman fan and I have no problem saying that I’m looking forward to this next bold step in food journalism.

In Bittman’s history of the Minimalist, he talks about the most popular recipe he never wrote, Jim Lahey's No Knead Bread. If you’ve ever baked a loaf of bread, this revolutionary technique will rock your world. The recipe requires very little yeast, no kneading (although I’ve found a few turns around a floured counter really help to pretty up the loaf), and it’s baked in a scorching hot covered Dutch oven. The joy and genius of this bread is that you make it in stages, mixing up the dough one day, letting it rise, shaping and baking the following day. Hands-on time is minimal, the resulting rustic hearth-worthy loaf will amaze your friends and family. I live in a bread-poor area of town, at least in terms of “artisan” loaves. Having a loaf of No-Knead Bread on my counter assures me that a hearty sandwich or even the after products - homemade croutons and quality bread crumbs, are within my reach.

Here’s the link for the recipe – let’s give the NYT some love. My only variations are in the pot that I use and the fact that I knead the dough for a minute or two before the first rise. The pot that I use is a Lodge cast-iron chicken fryer with a lid. It’s not quite as deep as a Dutch oven, but it gets screaming hot in the oven and produces a chewy, rustic loaf.

A rustic loaf of No-Knead Bread by Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books
What about you? Are you a Bittman fan? What will you miss about the Minimalist? Do you think food writing belongs on the opinion page?

Text and bread image copyright 2011, Lucy Mercer.

Friday, November 26, 2010

Roasted, spicy almonds...just in case


Around the holidays, I like to have a few things on hand that I can set out when folks drop by, which, admittedly, doesn't happen all that often. But what does happen pretty often is that I'll be running late starting supper and will need to set out a snack of some sort to keep the hungry hordes at bay. Things like carrots and ranch dressing, or maybe cheese and crackers are year-round players. In the late fall, I buy bags of raw almonds or walnuts or pecans and make spicy roasted nuts to set out on the counter. (Cheese wafers are another standby - look for that recipe soon.)

I make these nuts in my wok skillet, which is roomy and just right for glazing bunches of almonds. This recipe can be used with walnuts or pecans, too.

Roasted Spicy Almonds with Rum Glaze

The spice mix is variable according to your taste. If you only have cinnamon, that will work. If you're out of rum extract or rum, just increase the vanilla.

2 cups raw almonds

2 tablespoons brown sugar

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon allspice

1 tablespoon rum or rum extract

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 teaspoon brown sugar

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees and prepare a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Spread almonds on baking sheet and toast for about five minutes, jiggling the pan midway through to ensure even toastiness.

2. While nuts are in the oven, stir together two tablespoons brown sugar, salt, cinnamon and allspice in a medium bowl.

3. Put wok pan over medium heat and melt butter. Add vanilla and rum and 1 teaspoon brown sugar. Remove nuts from oven and pour into wok. Stir until glossy and warm, about five minutes. Pour glazed nuts into spice mix; toss, then spread on parchment-lined cookie sheet to cool.

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Ruth's Chris Steak House's famous oyster dressing recipe

Ruth's Chris Steak House famous oyster dressing.


Thanksgiving is a time to share a feast with family and reflect on the dreams that our forefathers had for this country. Ruth's Chris Steak House founder Ruth Fertel found her American Dream and shares her oyster dressing recipe, served to her family and restaurant patrons each Thanksgiving.

In 1965, Ruth Fertel was a single mother with two sons and she mortgaged her house to purchase Chris Steak House at the corner of Broad and Ursuline in New Orleans in 1965. With virtually no experience, Ruth found herself butchering the meat by herself in the kitchen, keeping the books, and serving guests. She even developed the broiler – still used today – the steak house uses to create the sizzle for which it’s so widely known.

After a kitchen fire destroyed the steakhouse in 1976, Ruth purchased a new property a few blocks away on Broad Street and opened under the name Ruth’s Chris Steak House; her contract with the first owner precluded her from using the name Chris Steak House in a different location, and she didn’t want to lose her loyal following. The first franchise opened in March 1976 and over the years, Ruth added more franchises.

As part of her celebrations for Thanksgiving and all family holidays, Ruth served her original oyster dressing, offering her hometown New Orleans twist to an American classic. The dressing includes Crescent City ingredients including oysters, smoked sausage and New Orleans-style hot sausage. Continuing the legacy of Ruth Fertel and her humble beginnings, Nancy Oswald, owner of the highest-grossing Ruth’s Chris Steak House franchise in the world with nine restaurants in the Southeast, including four in the Atlanta area, still serves Ruth’s oyster dressing at every holiday gathering.

Serving dishes such as her favorite oyster dressing to close friends and family, Ruth lived up to her famous words to “do what you love – love what you do.”

Ruth’s Oyster Dressing
Serves: about 12 four-ounce servings

8 ounces smoked sausage, finely diced
8 ounces hot sausage (see recipe below)
2 medium onions, chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
1 large green pepper, chopped
¼ cup fresh garlic, minced
1 bunch fresh parsley, chopped
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) butter, cut into small pieces
8 cups oysters, cleaned and drained, save the liquid
4 cubes chicken bullion
8 cups (1 to 1 ½ loaves) French bread, dried and cut into half-inch cubes
6 large eggs
Salt to taste
White pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste

1. In a skillet, sauté smoked sausage and hot sausage. Add onion, celery, green pepper and garlic and cook on medium heat until vegetables are soft. Add parsley and remove from heat.

2. In another skillet, sauté oysters in 2 tablespoons of butter until the edges curl. Using a slotted spoon, remove oysters from skillet and set aside to cool. Add remaining oyster liquid and bouillon cubes to skillet, dissolving bouillon cubes and bringing the mixture to a simmer. Remove from heat and add remaining 14 tablespoons of butter.

3. Chop cooled oysters and add to the onion, celery, green pepper and garlic mixture.

4. In a large bowl, beat eggs and stir into the vegetables and oyster mixture. Add bread and oyster liquid with butter and bouillon and mix well. Season to taste with salt, white pepper and cayenne pepper.

5. Pour mixture in a buttered baking dish. Cover and bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour. Remove cover and bake for an additional 15 minutes.

Hot Sausage

In New Orleans, hot sausage is a fresh pork sausage seasoned with red pepper and paprika and is stuffed in pork casings, similar to Italian sausage without the fennel seeds. If hot sausage is unavailable, use this substitute:

8 ounces boneless pork shoulder, cut into one-inch cubes
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper

1. Put the pork shoulder cubes in a bowl and add in cayenne pepper, paprika salt and black pepper. Let mixture stand for 2 hours then grind or chop it to a fine texture. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Birthday Cake



Chocolate Pound Cake decorated by the Birthday Girl. Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books
 

Birthday girl by Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books
We sing this blessing a lot in our house, and it's especially appropriate here when I've made a chocolate cake for Little Bit's Birthday.

"God is good, God is great.
God created chocolate cake.

He's a righteous dude and He gives great food.
Rub a dub dub three men in a tub.

We thank you, Lord for this great grub.
Amen amen amen amen.
Fresh....."

Here's the recipe, Chocolate Pound Cake. I made another one this week that went to the North Georgia State Fair to be judged in the pound cake recipe. Wish me luck!

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Creamy Grits are a Satisfying Go-With


Creamy Grits by Lucy Mercer/A Cook and Her Books
 Let's be clear: I was born in the South, I live in the South, and I will love grits 'til my dying day. Growing up, quick white grits with a puddle of butter were a Sunday morning treat alongside scrambled eggs and bacon. My husband introduced me to his ritual of crumbling bacon into the grits for a salty, smoky crunch.

Before the girls came along, I would come home some nights, dead tired from work, put on jammies and fix a bowl of grits, sprinkle them with shredded Cheddar cheese and eat them in front of Thursday night's Must-See-TV. These days, I still turn out grits for breakfast, but I've expanded my options and use grits the way Italian cooks use polenta - as a foil for rich stews such as ratatouille.

Here's my recipe for creamy grits. You can use regular quick grits (never instant!), or the sunny yellow grits made by Dixie Lily.

Creamy grits

2 cups water

1 cup chicken broth

1 cup milk

1 cup grits

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Cheddar cheese, cream cheese, butter and other goodies, p.r.n.


1. In a medium saucepan, preferably nonstick, combine all liquids and place over medium heat. Slowly whisk in grits. Bring to a simmer, whisking occasionally, and cook until the grits are smooth and free of lumps.

2. Stir in cheese, if using, and butter and seasonings. Serve with breakfast or as a base for ratatouille.



Monday, May 24, 2010

Beekeeping and Brunch Amid Skyscrapers

On the fifth floor terrace of an Atlanta hotel, I learned everything I always wanted to know about beekeeping. That's right, the miracle that is honey is taking place in midtown Atlanta, not at the Atlanta Botanical Gardens, just a hop, skip and jump across a few skyscrapers, but smack dab on 14th Street at the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel. Chef Robert Gerstenecker harvests the honey, processes it and uses it in his fine dining restaurant, Park 75.

The terrace is also home to six planters filled with herbs, tomatoes and peppers, and a hydroponic garden for lettuces. Chef Gerstenecker grew up on a farm in Canada and believes in incorporating farm-to-table principles in his cuisine.

chef w bees
Chef Gerstenecker shows off a tray from the hive. The hive will produce about 100 pounds of honey this year.

hydroponic
The hydroponic lettuces go from seed to harvest in just one month.


sage
The variegated sage is a brilliant addition to the herb garden. 

pickles
Housemade pickles in the Park 75 kitchen. They tasted just like the bread and butter pickles my aunt made.
 
buttery and honey
The honey and comb atop fresh sweet cream butter that accompanied the banana bread starter.

doughnuts
The way all good meals should end: with freshly glazed doughnuts (above) and sorbet (below) in the kitchen.


sorbet

I visited Park 75 this past weekend as part of the Blogger's Brunch - about two dozen local food bloggers were treated to a tour of the rooftop garden and demonstration of the hives, followed by a stellar brunch at Park 75 featuring the "rooftop honey" and produce.


The Menu
The cocktail: a Mason jar Bloody Mary with a skewer of pickles - bread and butter, okra and pearl onion. And a crispy slice of bacon. I'm not making this up. As God is my witness, there was bacon in the booze and I ate it, cold congealed fat and all, and it was pretty darn good.
On the table: homemade banana bread, very good, maybe not as good as my best loaf, but still nothing to be ashamed about. Sweet cream butter topped with honey and honeycomb. And homemade bread and butter pickles and pickled okra. I had to restrain myself from eating my portion and my neighbor's - they were the old-fashioned kind that nobody makes anymore.
Athens Benedict, a vegetarian version with an heirloom tomato, sprouts, avocado and herb hollandaise. A sterling reminder that a runny egg yolk is a beautiful thing, especially when topped with hollandaise. Outstanding.
Chicken & Waffle, fried chicken glazed with rooftop honey sitting on the cutest little waffle I'd ever seen. This was lovely to look at, and many of the bloggers raved, but it's a dish that I just don't get. (Still ate it, though, cause someone worked really hard to make it.)
Wood-Grilled Waygu Skirt Steak with Blue Cheese Potato Salad. Some sort of Asian sweet glaze on the beef. Very tasty. And you don't have to sell me on blue cheese, it's one of my favorite things.
Tempura Squash Blossom filled with local Split Creek goat cheese. This was perfect - I've never prepared squash blossoms before and certainly never eaten them in a restaurant. This was simple and fresh and fun. Probably my fave bite of the day.
Seared Scallop with Spring Vegetable Risotto. The cook who prepared the scallops should go to Top Chef - the scallop gave up its life in a noble and perfectly-cooked fashion. Nary a drop of risotto remained on my plate.

After this feast, we repaired to the kitchen for desserts - homemade doughnuts (Boston cream, glazed and chocolate sauce) and house made sorbet. My friend and fellow blogger Susan says the doughnuts were delicious, but I went for the sorbet - two mini scoops, mango and lemon.

You know how you can eat an obscene amount of glorious food, but still require just a little something to finish it off? Chef Gerstenecker understands this and had housemade chocolates on hand. This glossy dark bar is the best kind of chocolate - just one piece is all you need to satisfy the urge.

But wait there's more - a lagniappe to take home - I left with a goody bag full of housemade spiced pecans and peach preserves from last summer. I feel like I visited Chef Gerstenecker's childhood farmhouse. I wonder if he'll give me the recipe for the pickles?

© 2010, Lucy Mercer.